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Log 11: Old Town Lunenburg With a Side of Mushamush

Updated: Mar 15, 2023

Trip Summary:


• Rogues Roost to Lunenburg

• Trip Distance of 27.7 NM, Total Distance, 347.0 NM

• Departed at 0800 hours, arrived at 1330 hours


Crew Log Friday, August 26th and Saturday, August 27th, 2022


Lunenburg is a popular coastal town on Nova Scotia's South Shore. The town has a long history as being a commercial fishery port and flourished through the 1800's. If you weren't aware of Lunenburg's history in commercial fishing, you get two reminders as you enter the port: the High Liner Foods secondary fish plant, Canada's largest; and the associated smell of fish and chips (more likely fish sticks) coming from the plant.


View of Old Town Lunenburg from Elizabeth M

In 1995, UNESCO designated the "Old Town" Lunenburg a World Heritage Site, so much of the original architecture is still very evident today. Lunenburg has a population of just over 2,200, but given the number of people on the streets and in local businesses, it's summer population increases dramatically. A crew member from another visiting boat noted that he had to adjust his meal times in order to just get a seat in a restaurant.


The town also has a famous shipbuilding history and is where the original Bluenose and Bluenose II were built. We had the pleasure of coming to watch the relaunch of Bluenose II in 2013 after her extensive refit. Unfortunately she wasn't in her home port during our visit to Lunenburg, altho we have crossed paths with her many times in and around various ports in Atlantic Canada. She is a beautiful boat in every respect and a true Nova Scotia sailing ambassador .


The trip from Rogues Roost was largely uneventful. We woke to a beautiful sunrise after a very quiet night on anchor. The winds were light and the weather was cloudy with sunny patches, altho it was very warm and sunny as we approached Lunenburg. One of the boats from Quebec, sv Magali, left the anchorage ahead of us, also on route to Lunenburg. Between Little Duck and Big Duck Islands we spotted our first pod of 3 - 4 porpoises swimming past us in the opposite direction.


Passage meal of the day while keeping a watchful eye on our course.

We generally eat very well on Elizabeth M, thanks largely to the provisioning efforts of my Co-Captain. And while I am a very experienced consumer of food, I have proven to be wasteful when it comes to reprovisioning. Luckily, those in charge with replenishing the ship stores, always take my preferences into consideration. With some restraint. One of my favorite meals, is our passage meal. It never ceases to amaze me what comes up from down below.


We picked up a mooring ball with a terrific view of Old Town Lunenburg and a short ride to dinghy dock out side of Lunenburg Marina. The facility, which was owned by Develop Nova Scotia (Waterfront Development) and managed by the Boat Locker, had boaters' washroom facilities complete with showers and free washer and dryers.


Unfortunately there was no WiFi, altho we did discover that we could access the CIBC WiFi from the bench across the street from the bank. We caught up on news from home and Snapchats of the grandkids. I did however, feel like I was getting a wary eye from passing tourists who seemed to regard me a local vagrant. Oh the life of a sailor.


We shared a plate of clams and chips and enjoyed a cool drink on a shaded deck overlooking the harbour, before heading back to the boat to enjoy the view from the opposite direction. Another cold drink might have also been involved. It was very entertaining to watch boats coming and going, including some beautiful classic old sailboats.

Janet and Judy catching up on the shores of Lake Mushamush

One of the major benefits of doing a partial circumnavigation of Nova Scotia is the opportunity to visit with family and friends along the way. While visiting Lunenburg, we had the opportunity to spend the afternoon and early evening with Brian and Janet (Judy's brother) and Steve and Carrie (Judy's niece) at Carrie and Steve's beautiful summer property on Lake Mushamush. It's been a difficult time recently, so it was great to be able to relax and reminisce about happier (and occasionally crazier) times.


Brian, Carrie and Steve. Lake Mushamush, Lunenburg Co., Nova Scotia

Carrie and Steve certainly know how to entertain and make you feel comfortable and the day ended far too soon. However, we will certainly be grateful for the opportunity to reconnect and have fond memories of our brief visit to Lake Mushamush. I have to smile every time I say Lake Mushamush! Thanks again guys for a great day.


Fortunately, we made it back to the boat safely and readied Elizabeth M for our trip down the South Shore and enjoyed a spectacular sunset over Lunenburg Harbour.


A fitting end to our time in Lunenburg.


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