Crew Log for June 13th – 14th, 2023
Trip Summary:
• Halifax to Tangier
• Trip Distance of 45.8 NM, Total Distance To-Date of 5,499.4 NM
OK, we could have easily drove around in circles for another 0.6 nautical miles to reach 5,500 nautical miles to-date, but we’re not like that. However, HOLY MOLY, we have travelled 5,500 nautical miles (almost) since August 14, 2022. And what a fitting place to reach another MILEstone, than Tangier, the summer hideout for Colin and Patty, who have unselfishly guided us through this entire process.
It seems like a lifetime ago Colin and Patty arrived in our driveway in Truro and gifted us the “Cruising Guide for the Eastern Shore”. They also spent an entire afternoon going through our proposed route and offering suggestions. As if that wasn’t enough, they hosted us in Tangier on the way down, which included a mooring right in front of their beautiful property. Throughout our adventure, Colin and Patty seemed to have a sixth sense of when things were not going well for us, and sent off a timely note of encouragement.
Back in Lunenburg, I received a note from Colin, inviting us to use their mooring on our return trip. To quote Colin, “the mooring is free and comes with supper…showers are 5 cents, 7 cents if you want hot water”. With an offer like that, how could we refuse. However, I opted to shower at Armdale for free and saved the 5 cents.
We woke to warm, sunny skies and forecasted winds of 8 – 12 knots out of the south. We untied the lies and headed back down “The Arm” and out of Halifax Harbour. The conditions were glassy calm which made it easy to spot the lobster pots. Aside from a few fishing boats, it was a quiet day on the water.
Given the light winds, and the promise of a free supper, we motor sailed most of the day to ensure we arrived by mealtime. We took turns in the galley, Judy made biscuits and I made a loaf of bread to help pass the time.
We stayed quite far offshore, just beyond a bank of fog that blanketed the coastline, to minimize the likelihood of snagging a lobster pot. We made our approach to Tangier between Borgles Island and Baltee Island through thick dense fog. We passed through a narrow cut between the mainland and Inner Baltee Island and crossed Tangier Harbour to the only mooring ball at the "Tangier Harbour Yacht Club", aka Colin and Patty's.
This area is part of the “100 Wild Islands”, the “Most Valuable Islands You Have Never Heard Of”. In 2014, the Nova Scotia Government launched a campaign to protect an archipelago of over 100 islands off the eastern shore of Nova Scotia. So far, through the generosity of the public, they have reached 85 percent of their goal.
The “Wild Islands” weren’t far from where Judy spent most of her summers growing up. We also bought our sea kayaks at an adventure outfitter in Tangier and have paddled this area many times. It is one of the most beautiful places in Nova Scotia. Rugged, remote, with beautiful sand beaches. Navigating through here is not for the faint of heart. Unlike many of the places we’ve sailed, miss a mark here and you’ll likely find yourself on the rocks.
We secured ourselves to the mooring and were immediately greeted with a friendly “Welcome to Tangier” from shore. We tidied the boat, dropped the dinghy in the water and headed to shore, where Colin was waiting to take our lines. I think I might have mentioned his ingenious pully system, like a clothesline, that allows him to pull the dinghy back out beyond the low tide mark.
We immediately felt at home as we exchanged stories and caught each other up on what had been happening since we last saw one another, back in August, 2022. As an added bonus, Patty’s bother, Stan and sister-in-law Mary joined us for the evening. Stan has had an interesting career in the renewal energy sector and Mary had a productive career as an estate planning advisor, both areas near and dear to our hearts. Great food, great conversation and great friends. How Nova Scotian!
We planned to work our way down the coast the following day, but we woke to a “tic of fog” and strong winds on the nose, so we decided to stay in Tangier for another day. As one of our “followers” said, “I see you’re staying another day with your ‘Trip Yogis’”. As a matter of fact, we were. We had a tasty lunch and supper and in between, a land tour of the area. It was a nice day.
Throughout our travels we have been overwhelmed with the kindness of people. I have no doubt that long after the memories of walking barefoot on a pink sand beach in the Bahamas or strolling through the live oaks on Cumberland Island fade from our memory, we will always smile when we think about the wonderfully supportive, generous people we’ve met along the way. It’s the people that make the places special.
Thank you, Colin and Patty, we promise, we’re leaving tomorrow.
But more about that, next time.
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