Crew Log for January 19th – 20th, 2023
Trip Summary:
• Staniel Cay to Shroud Cay
• Trip Distance of 27.7 NM, Total Distance To-Date of 2,804.7 NM
• Departed at 08h00, arrived at 14h50
With our provisioning done and visits to Thunderball Grotto and Pig Beach completed, it was time to head back out. In our rush to get to a sheltered anchorage, we missed many places in the Exuma Land and Sea Park, so we planned to back track to the top of the Park. Most people would continue south to Georgetown and spend several weeks there with 300 – 400 of their closest friends, but we’d rather look for something a little quieter.
It’s not that we don’t like connecting with people. On the contrary, one of the reasons we were anxious to go to Shroud Cay was our friends on mv NoMastE and mv Anodyne were both planning to be there. NoMastE had been sitting out the blow in the Park and Anodyne were a little further north. I’m not sure how the smallest, slowest sailboat out here linked up with a trawler and one of the fastest motor yachts in the Bahamas, but we certainly enjoy the company of their crews. Other than our choice of water transportation, we seem to be very like minded.
As the wind shifted around through the night, our anchorage at Big Major South became a little more rolly. That, combined with the constant parade of tour boat traffic to Pig Beach, was motivation to move on. Although that said, this was a very comfortable anchorage.
It was a beautiful morning and we were looking forward to continuing to explore this area of the Exumas. Our destination was Shroud Cay, which was at the northern end of the Exuma Land and Sea Park, just across the cut from Norman's Cay. Historians may remember that Norman's Cay was the site of the cocaine drug smuggling operations for Pablo Escobar’s Medellin Cartel from the late 1970’s to the early 1980’s. Norman’s Cay was also the original site for the failed Fyre Festival, before it was moved to Great Exuma.
In contrast, Shroud Cay to the south, is an uninhabited cay with great beaches with many shallow creeks teaming with wildlife, that are only assessable by dinghy. The Park maintains a number of moorings and there are good anchorages on the north west side of Shroud Cay.
Our day started out with a nice downwind sail, but the winds lightened so we pulled in the jib and finished the last bit of the trip on motor. I took advantage of the time and calm conditions to make a batch of pita bread, which was a big hit later that evening. It was a very warm day however, with temperature getting close to 30 Celsius which made for a very hot transit, particularly leaning over a hot stove cooking pitas.
Arriving at Shroud, I dove on the anchor to make sure it was secure, which was mainly an excuse to cool off. When I came up out of the water, I was greeted by the crew from Anodyne who were out exploring in their dinghy, having arrived the day before. A short while later we spotted the NoMastE crew who also dropped by to say hello. Later, we enjoyed a nice evening on board Anodyne catching up with both crews.
It seems redundant to say it, given the weather here, but the next morning was beautiful. Judy finally got to dig her paddleboard out of the storage lockers and enjoy a morning paddle around the anchorage. Shroud is also famous for dinghy drifts through the mangroves.
Sanctuary Creek runs from the North Shroud Cay anchorage out into the Atlantic side while a longer route runs from the western shore to the Atlantic. You have to time your passage right to take advantage of the currents and more importantly, avoid running out of water. Lesli, from NoMastE had navigated through the longer route the day before on her paddleboard and reported that there were several sections where the water levels got pretty thin.
As we entered the narrow mangrove creek it didn’t take long before we spotted a small shark, several turtles and fish. It was amazing to quietly glide over turtles, who seemed to be oblivious to our presence above. At the other end, on the Atlantic side, there was an area called “The Rapids”, where the currents create a whirlpool like effect. The water in the pool is clear and warm and is surrounded by a massive sand beach. Aside from the crew of NoMastE and one other young couple and their toddler, we had the entire place to ourselves.
We climbed the hill to Camp Driftwood and got an amazing view of the water colors on the Atlantic side and of the mangroves around Sanctuary Creek. Given Shroud’s proximity to Norman’s Cay, the island was the perfect location for a CIA reconnaissance perch to observe drug smuggling operations on the neighboring island.
Originally built by a hermit living on the island, Camp Driftwood has been referred to as “Robinson Crusoe’s island home”. Aside from a damaged sign informing you that you are on the site of the former camp, there is little evidence left of the camp or of any CIA presence. That said, I am sure the CIA would never admit to have been camped out here anyway.
Judy and Lesli swam in the whirlpool as Jay and I sat in the water with Zac Brown band lyrics running though our head. “I got my toes in the water, ass in the sand, not a worry in the world, a cold beer in my hand, life is good today, life is good today”. Well, we didn’t have beer, but life was still pretty good and we felt so fortunate to be able to visit this amazingly special place.
The group reconvened on NoMastE that evening to watch the sunset and recount our adventures through the Shroud Cay mangrove and plan our next adventure. NoMastE were heading down to Warderick Wells, while we and Anodyne planned to visit Hawksbill Cay, a short hop to the south.
But more about that, next time.
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