Crew Log for September 25th – 27th, 2022
Trip Summary:
Onset to Fairhaven / New Bedford
Trip Distance of 28.8 NM, Total Distance To-Date of 933.3 NM
Departed at 0900 hours and arrived at 1430 hours
Massachusetts was brushed by Hurricane Fiona, but its impact was insignificant compared to what our family and friends were experiencing in Nova Scotia and Atlantic Canada. As we woke and readied the boat for our trip to Fairhaven, news and pictures started trickling in on just how devastating Fiona had been. While we were happy to be out of the storm’s path, we were truly saddened with what was happening and what would continue to happen over the next 24 hours. It was however, comforting to know that our family were all safe.
The pictures from home were in sharp contrast to the Fireworks Show the evening before that capped off the Annual Harvest Festival in Onset. It was all a bit surreal to be watching a spectacular fireworks display, knowing that Atlantic Canada was bracing itself for what likely would be the worst storm in history. At least the worst in my lifetime. Onset was a very protected place to wait out a storm.
We woke to a flat calm anchorage, although Windy was still showing 20-25 knot gusts for today, and we were headed out onto Buzzards Bay. The Bay is considered to be one of the most challenging bodies of water on the east coast. The currents between the islands and cuts of land along the Bay create some difficult and in some cases, dangerous conditions. As we found out, the conditions can go from flat calm, to what one guide described as, “a churning maelstrom”. We wisely put a reef in the main (although we later agreed, we should have put two in).
We had very gusty conditions out of the west, right on our nose. As we struggled our way up against some massive waves, the expression, “gentlemen never sail to weather”, kept running through my head. It was the first time I can remember a wave coming over the entire boat and over the dodger. These were some of the most challenging conditions we had ever sailed in for sure.
Tacking our way up towards Fairhaven, we marveled at the number of boats out on the water for a Sunday morning sail, given the conditions. One of the local Yacht Clubs was even having a race. The chatter on the VHF was casual and lighthearted, suggesting that this was “just another” day on Buzzards Bay. They are a hardy lot for sure.
The Patriots were having their home opener this afternoon against the Baltimore Ravens. I briefly looked at what tickets would cost, but it was outside of our entertainment budget. However, while making our way up the coast, 4 planes flew over head in formation, right about the time the opening ceremonies would have been taking place. We didn’t see the pregame but did wonder it we had one of the best seats in the house for experiencing it.
Our destination was Fairhaven, which is directly across the Acushnet River from New Bedford. I booked dock space (on my new favorite app, Dockwa) at the Acushnet River Safe Boating Club. The Club was made up of Auxiliary Coast Guard members and was one of the best deals we’ve run into. This would be the first time we were on a dock since we left Armdale. It is kind of nice to be able to step off the boat onto the dock to go exploring and have unlimited access to water. There was also the option to plug in, but so far our solar panels have been keeping up with our energy demands.
New Bedford, was one of the world’s most important whaling ports and at its peak, was the wealthiest city in the world per capita, and is still home to a massive fishing fleet. Fairhaven was the second largest whaling port in the United States and so it’s no surprise then that New Bedford / Fairhaven was the primary setting for the novel Moby Dick. Herman Melville, the author, departed Fairhaven aboard the whaleship, Acushnet, in 1841. There is also a Nova Scotia connection to Fairhaven.
Joshua Slocum, the first person to sail around the world single handed, spend over a year in Fairhaven fixing up his boat, the Spray, which was given to him by a whaling captain, Captain Eben Pierce. Slocum eventual sailed to Nova Scotia to start his journey. After his trip around the world, he returned to Fairhaven, to almost the exact spot he launched the Spray from, 3.5 years earlier. There was one other Nova Scotia connection to Fairhaven that I wasn’t aware of.
I spend 4 summers working at the Brule Point Golf Club in the “Pro Shop”, although as anyone who has seen me golf can attest, I am far from “a pro”. On the contrary, I’ve always felt “golf was a walk ruined”. However, my golfing buddies might know that Fairhaven is the home of the Acushnet Company, who manufacture Titleist golf equipment. Throughout the years of me shanking balls in the woods, I am sure a few of them were Titleist balls that I got on an employee discount. So, in a small way, I played a part in the financial success of the Acushnet Company, given the number of balls I lost.
We were looking forward to being able to walk to the West Marine store in Fairhaven. However, we quickly realized that in “West Marine speak”, there are West Marine stores, and Super Stores. Unless it is "super", I can assure you that you are setting yourself up for disappointment. It is analogous to shopping for international gourmet food in a Needs Convenience store.
As my family will also know, I have resisted darkening the entry of Walmart my entire life. Sadly however, in many of the towns we visited, if there’s a Walmart, there is not much else. While some do have “grocery sections” others, like the Fairhaven Walmart, sells “food” in boxes and cupcakes covered in something resembling frosting, but in the most unusual colors. Nothing fresh to be had. Fortunately, we found a Stop and Shop and I stood quietly in the produce section and just soaked in all the sights and smells.
It was at the Stop and Shop and that we met Iris, a local Fairhaven Uber driver. It was our first experience with Uber and I will admit, it was neat.
Judy just finished reading a book by Stuart McLean called “Welcome Home: Travels in Smalltown Canada”. In the book, the author says you never really truly experience the character of a place, “from a car”. We are starting to understand why as we strolled through the residential neighborhoods in Fairhaven and wandering down to the Joshua Slocum memorial.
When we returned to the marina, sv Puffin, a Coaster 33, was tied up next to us. I dropped over to admire the boat, a motor sailer that reminded me of a Fisher, and to chat with the Captain, a resident of Fairhaven. The boat was in the process of being sold and was recently featured on Captain Q’s Yacht Hunter Youtube Channel, which was filmed in the exact spot we were tied up in. It’s fun meeting famous people…hehehe.
The weather forecast wasn’t great and since spending time in Fairhaven, I have become more of a “gentleman”, so “sailing to weather” wasn’t on. We decided to walk across the bridge to New Bedford to visit the “Seaman’s Bethel and Mariner’s Home”. The church, established in 1830, was an initiative of the New Bedford Port Society for Moral Improvement of Seamen. Apparently, whalemen “sought out gambling dens, brothels, saloons, and dance halls”, which was “detrimental to the dignity and good order” of the community. Unfortunately, restoring our dignity and good order would have to wait. The Seaman’s Bethel was closed on Tuesdays. Oh well, off to Moby Dicks Brew Pub for a pint and some lunch. There was no dancing however.
The Whaling Museum was opened and was a fascinating display of the whaling industry history. In addition its very informative displays, masterfully put together, the museum had one of the world’s largest and most impressive display of Scrimshaw. Everything from purely decorative pieces of art to lamps, musical instruments, crib boards and even pie crimpers, were on display.
Our last stops were back in Fairhaven to see the town’s library, an impressive historic structure that appeared to be a church in a former life and an actual church, the Unitarian Church, which unfortunately was closed. The detail in the construction of the church was amazing. Judy counted 47 little figures carved into one of the doors of the church. There were unique sculptures on the building structure everywhere you looked. Fairhaven’s High School and Town Hall were equally impressive, architecturally.
While Fairhaven and New Bedford weren’t on our list of planned stops initially, we really enjoyed our time here. The folks at the Acushnet River Safe Boating Club were very nice, and we really enjoyed experiencing the area on foot. Given that the harbor is protected by a massive manmade dike, it is also one of safest harbors on the east coast.
The weather was looking good, so we were off to Cuttyhunk Island in the morning. But more about that, next time.
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